And we are home! The yard is not wildly overgrown and the house has not been taken over by spiders and ants. So nice to be back with a full kitchen, in a place with no holding tank, and in a bed which does not feel like a coffin.
We enjoyed a lovely morning in Solomons and got underway around Noon. The 4 1/2 hour ride across the bay was mostly smooth, and we had a brisk SSE wind at our back. Amazed at how many fishing boats we saw, large charters and small private boats. I hope the rockfish population can withstand the assault.
I now have a daunting list of things to deal with for the boat, from the water leaking at the base of the toilet to the generator, and many other little things that collectively should keep me out of trouble for a while.
Saturday, April 28, 2018
Solomons
Our trip across the bay from Crisfield to Solomons was smooth until the last few miles when the wind picked up from the Northwest and the ride became a little rocky. Still it was a beautiful day on the bay, and Anne drove the boat for the last hour into our harbor at Solomons. We arrived at 5 pm, washed Finally down from stem to stern, and enjoyed cocktails by sunset. We are tied up in a lovely marina, Zahniser’s, which comes with an excellent restaurant where we enjoyed our last dinner of this journey. Today we make the last leg - home to Herrington Harbour North.
Friday, April 27, 2018
Awoke early this morning to the wild screeching of gulls and terns on the docks; apparently it is mating season and there was a lot of seabird sex underway. We took an early morning walking tour of Crisfield and discovered that the town is down on its heels. We passed many empty storefronts and dilapidated buildings, and few people were about on Friday morning. Our marina is huge and mostly empty - appears to be an attempt by the state to build business in the community. There do seem to be several thriving businesses around the crabbing industry.
After an early morning rain, the sky remained cloudy and the winds light. We are heading for Solomons tonight and home tomorrow .
After an early morning rain, the sky remained cloudy and the winds light. We are heading for Solomons tonight and home tomorrow .
Thursday, April 26, 2018
In Crisfield
We got underway from Norfolk this morning at 7:40 am and marveled at the massive display of naval power in various stages of maintenance as we made our way into the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay. Even though I had only been on a boat at the southern end of the bay once before, entering it felt like coming home.
The ride was a bit choppy at first as we rode north on the western side of the bay. Once we turned east, headed for Tangier Island, the ride became smoother as the wind lessened and the bay waters calmed, at times looking like pools of mercury undulating in filtered sunlight. After rounding the southern end of Tangier Island, we cruised easily north to Crisfield and arrived at 4:30 - a 9 hour day on the bay.
We are in a slip at Somers Cove Marina, tucked nicely back into a quiet cove. It is early in the season, so there are only a few other boats here, and there were only two other dinners at the Waterman’s Inn, where we enjoyed an excellent meal including crab soup, steamed clams, a crab cake, and shrimp and grits.
We are expecting rain tonight and tomorrow morning, but the forecast beyond is for sunshine and moderate temperatures. Plans for the next few days remain to be solidified, but Solomon’s is likely the next stop.
The ride was a bit choppy at first as we rode north on the western side of the bay. Once we turned east, headed for Tangier Island, the ride became smoother as the wind lessened and the bay waters calmed, at times looking like pools of mercury undulating in filtered sunlight. After rounding the southern end of Tangier Island, we cruised easily north to Crisfield and arrived at 4:30 - a 9 hour day on the bay.
We are in a slip at Somers Cove Marina, tucked nicely back into a quiet cove. It is early in the season, so there are only a few other boats here, and there were only two other dinners at the Waterman’s Inn, where we enjoyed an excellent meal including crab soup, steamed clams, a crab cake, and shrimp and grits.
We are expecting rain tonight and tomorrow morning, but the forecast beyond is for sunshine and moderate temperatures. Plans for the next few days remain to be solidified, but Solomon’s is likely the next stop.
Wednesday, April 25, 2018
Surrounded by Gigantic Navy Ships
We untethered early this morning in order to make the 1:30 lock opening. On the way the generator kicked in long enough for us to make coffee, which was good because there were four boats ahead of us, and we waited a good while before getting our position in the lock. Lock operations were smoother this time, and the lock operator was quite the character - he treated us to a short conch concert... The ride up into Norfolk was uneventful, and we were snugly tied up in the Waterside Marina by 1 pm. Downtown is a short walk, and the weather was fine until a short while ago, though the thunderstorm seems to have gone around us.
This is our thirteenth marina, and they have run the gamut from mega funky (Lambs in Elizabeth City) to kind of posh (Lightkeepers Marina in North Myrtle Beach) . This one is under performing - the WiFi does not work and there is no laundry as advertised. But the location is excellent. Our next slip neighbor is named “Realty”, so we cannot be far astray!
This is our thirteenth marina, and they have run the gamut from mega funky (Lambs in Elizabeth City) to kind of posh (Lightkeepers Marina in North Myrtle Beach) . This one is under performing - the WiFi does not work and there is no laundry as advertised. But the location is excellent. Our next slip neighbor is named “Realty”, so we cannot be far astray!
Tuesday, April 24, 2018
In the Dismal Swamp
A bit more about Lamb’s Marina: it was right off the highway into Elizabeth City, but tucked back so far off the entry to the Dismal Swamp on the water side, it would be easy to miss. The marina store offered the usual collection of candy, snacks, beverages, and random stuff, but the attached restaurant was closed. To the left of the dock where we tied up was an RV parking area where a half dozen or so disheveled “homesteads” with beat up pick up trucks were parked. The other boats in the marina were a motley collection of junkers for sale or ragged live aboards. The building with the toilets and showers offered a large lounge with couches and an uninteresting collection of books and dvds. The bathrooms were worn and clean enough. The motion-activated towel machine bore a water-stained magic marker sign scotch-taped to the front: Do Not Use to Dry Your Body.
We awoke to a steady rain that had begun in the middle of the night. In order to time our arrival at the first lock at the southern end of the Dismal Swamp for the 1:30 opening, we did not leave Lambs Marina until 10:30. We arrived at the lock a bit early, though the lock keeper opened the lock before 1:30 as we were the only vessel traveling either north or south. Once in the lock, we waited for a half hour while the lock keeper struggled to get the lock to close. It was still raining steadily 😂.
The northern lock gates finally opened and we motored slowly up the several miles to the visitors center where we had to “raft up” to another boat, an unusual way to tie up for the night. We have had little contact with our tethermates and will hope they do not want to leave before us in the morning. Turns out the generator stopped working again, so we could not use the stove, but the rain did let up enough for us to use the grill, so we enjoyed a fine meal of sirloin steak and asparagus!
Off tomorrow morning for a relatively short trip to Norfolk, VA, and hopefully a relief from the rain!
We awoke to a steady rain that had begun in the middle of the night. In order to time our arrival at the first lock at the southern end of the Dismal Swamp for the 1:30 opening, we did not leave Lambs Marina until 10:30. We arrived at the lock a bit early, though the lock keeper opened the lock before 1:30 as we were the only vessel traveling either north or south. Once in the lock, we waited for a half hour while the lock keeper struggled to get the lock to close. It was still raining steadily 😂.
The northern lock gates finally opened and we motored slowly up the several miles to the visitors center where we had to “raft up” to another boat, an unusual way to tie up for the night. We have had little contact with our tethermates and will hope they do not want to leave before us in the morning. Turns out the generator stopped working again, so we could not use the stove, but the rain did let up enough for us to use the grill, so we enjoyed a fine meal of sirloin steak and asparagus!
Off tomorrow morning for a relatively short trip to Norfolk, VA, and hopefully a relief from the rain!
Monday, April 23, 2018
To Elizabeth City
Actually left our funky Aligator River Marina at 7 am and slogged up to Elizabeth City by lunch time. It was a rough ride across the Albemarle Sound, though the new chart plotter tracking feature with the auto pilot were a great help. We are tucked away in an even funkier marina, Lambs Marina, a ways outside of Elizabeth City. We had time to give Finally a good exterior cleaning and for Gordon to fix the generator again - hopefully for long enough to make it through the Dismal Swamp where we will have no marina power - and for showers and laundry. The marina manager, Bill originally from Newfoundland, a real character, drove us to the Food Lion and the ABC store for provisions.
Enjoyed an excellent dinner at a real NC restaurant (marinated rib eye steaks, NC barbecue platter, chicken pot pie, mashed potatoes, black-eyed peas, slaw, and cucumber salad.) Made a successful foray to the Dollar General next door for a new bucket and miscellaneous little stuff.
Finished off the evening with the fourth episode of Collateral on Netflix.
Enjoyed an excellent dinner at a real NC restaurant (marinated rib eye steaks, NC barbecue platter, chicken pot pie, mashed potatoes, black-eyed peas, slaw, and cucumber salad.) Made a successful foray to the Dollar General next door for a new bucket and miscellaneous little stuff.
Finished off the evening with the fourth episode of Collateral on Netflix.
Sunday, April 22, 2018
Rough Ride This Morning
Not sure why this video will not play... but the experience was somewhat like riding a bucking bronco.
Long Day
We had planned to anchor tonight, but the winds were not favorable, so we pushed on to the Aligator River Marina, arriving at 7 pm, a 10 and 1/2 hour ride up from Oriental. This is the ultimate in minimalist marinas, barebones and barely occupied. But the WiFi is excellent!
We are off early tomorrow to Elizabeth City, getting ahead of an approaching storm, where we will work again on a broken generator. The next leg will take us through the Dismal Swamp Canal on into Norfolk, VA.
We are off early tomorrow to Elizabeth City, getting ahead of an approaching storm, where we will work again on a broken generator. The next leg will take us through the Dismal Swamp Canal on into Norfolk, VA.
Oriental, NC and on to Our First Anchorage
An easy day up to Oriental - spent a leisurely morning in Beaufort doing laundry, cleaning the boat, eating the local breakfast buffet, shopping the farmers market, filling the water and fuel tanks, and pumping out the holding tanks. Departed for our next destination, Beaufort, NC, around noon and made the easy trip in 3 hours. I had not slept well for the past few nights due to the low overnight temperatures and not being able to get warm enough, and the lack of sleep was wearing me down. What we needed was a real blanket for our bed, not just the sheet and bed spread, so I walked a bit over a mile (no Uber and no taxis) to Dollar General and bought one (not for a dollar though) - along with two more ice cube trays!
As soon as I exited the store parking lot, I stuck out my thumb, and damn if the first vehicle to pass me did not stop and give me a ride back to own! Bob was a local on his was to his favorite Beaufort tavern and a prince as far as I was concerned. And I was plenty warm last night.
We found some fresh local shrimp at a seafood shack called kackleberries - they also sold fresh eggs - berries from the bird that kackles... and both were delicious!
Plan to be on the hook tonight at the southern end of the Alligator River (still in NC). We had a very rough ride across the Pamlico Sound this morning, though Finally handled it well.
As soon as I exited the store parking lot, I stuck out my thumb, and damn if the first vehicle to pass me did not stop and give me a ride back to own! Bob was a local on his was to his favorite Beaufort tavern and a prince as far as I was concerned. And I was plenty warm last night.
We found some fresh local shrimp at a seafood shack called kackleberries - they also sold fresh eggs - berries from the bird that kackles... and both were delicious!
Plan to be on the hook tonight at the southern end of the Alligator River (still in NC). We had a very rough ride across the Pamlico Sound this morning, though Finally handled it well.
Saturday, April 21, 2018
Friday, April 20, 2018
Griping Update
With light winds and favorable currents, we made Beaufort, NC by 5:30 pm, whereupon Anne and I ubered to West Marine to purchase a new sea strainer for the heating/cooling system, leaving Gordon to work on the generator issue. We were able to get the new sea strainer and returned to the marina to find that Gordon had found the problem with the cooling system for the generator - an eight inch mangrove seed pod had somehow become sucked into the intake through hull, and he was able to remove it! When the new sea strainer is installed first thing tomorrow morning, we will have heat again! Just have to make it through the 42 degree night.
We are tied up in a small marina right along the waterfront of downtown Beaufort where the “Elderly Brothers” entertained us as best they could with their limited musical ability as the sun set over the stern, and we consumed the free plastic cups of box red wine that came with our slip from the Dockside Restaurant. For the first time in recent memory, I was able to use the grill without having to contend with a stiff wind 😎 and the WiFi actually works here! Who needs CD players anyway.
We are tied up in a small marina right along the waterfront of downtown Beaufort where the “Elderly Brothers” entertained us as best they could with their limited musical ability as the sun set over the stern, and we consumed the free plastic cups of box red wine that came with our slip from the Dockside Restaurant. For the first time in recent memory, I was able to use the grill without having to contend with a stiff wind 😎 and the WiFi actually works here! Who needs CD players anyway.
Time for a Bit of Griping
Today’s list of what is not working on Finally starting from the top:
- CD player on the fly bridge
- VHF on the fly bridge
- CD player in the cabin
- Generator
- Heat and a/c cannot be used until we have a new cover for the sea strainer which is leaking (and the low temperature overnight is in the low 40s)
May need a lay over in Beaufort for repairs.
We missed two bridge openings for a total delay of 1hour and 15 minutes...but we made it past Camp LeJeune live fire zone without getting shot!
Otherwise it is a fine chilly day.
Thursday, April 19, 2018
Wrightsville Beach
We are now in Wrightsville Beach North Carolina after an easy ride up from North Myrtal Beach. The weather has been great the past two days, and the wind has mostly been our friend. We have enjoyed driving the boat from the fly bridge - the view from there is so much better than downin the pilot house. Our route has taken us past many extravagant homes with long elaborate docks and boat lifts, leaving one to wonder who can afford all these huge homes with extensive landscaping and fancy powerboats. We are also seeing a large number of very large trawlers and yachts and sailboats in the marinas.
Enjoyed an excellent and inexpensive dinner at King Neptunes - a long walk from the marina! Out early tomorrow morning bound for Beaufort, NC.
Enjoyed an excellent and inexpensive dinner at King Neptunes - a long walk from the marina! Out early tomorrow morning bound for Beaufort, NC.
Wednesday, April 18, 2018
North Myrtal Beach
Ignore this part of the post if you do not have a toolbox or know what is in your partners. Gordon and I walked 1 and 1/2 Miles this morning to an electronics supply store to buy a multi-meter so he could finish the thruster switch installation project. We bought one and returned to the boat to put it away for later use when Gordon noticed a zippered side pouch on the tool bag... in addition to several sets of Alan wrenches, it contained the multi-meter that I could not find. Now I have two!
Gordon was able to solve the bow thruster riddle, so we now have both working! After refueling and pumping out the black water holding tank, we got underway around 10 am. It was a beautiful day down here, and we were able to drive the boat from the fly bridge through miles of deep wide waterways with the wind at our back, arriving as we had planned at a lovely marina just north of Myrtle Beach by 4 pm.
More details to follow - I am done in for today!
Gordon was able to solve the bow thruster riddle, so we now have both working! After refueling and pumping out the black water holding tank, we got underway around 10 am. It was a beautiful day down here, and we were able to drive the boat from the fly bridge through miles of deep wide waterways with the wind at our back, arriving as we had planned at a lovely marina just north of Myrtle Beach by 4 pm.
More details to follow - I am done in for today!
Tuesday, April 17, 2018
Fair Winds and the Intercoastal Coastal Slitherway
It was so cold last night that I had to get up in the middle of the night and add a layer of clothing. This is April in South Carolina?
After some initial confusion over the delivery of the new switch for the thrusters, we got underway, headed to Georgetown, SC around 10:30 am. It warmed up, and the route was fairly straightforward, but a number of sections were so shallow that our bottom skimmed the soft mud. Navigating these shallow stretches is nerve wracking and exhausting. Gordon drove the hardest part! Otherwise it was a pleasant trip up to the Harborwalk marina which is in easy walking distance to downtown Georgetown, where we arrived at 6:45 pm. This little town has a giant paper plant and a soon to be reopened steel mill, though numerous store fronts on Main Street are vacant. The thriving businesses are restaurants serving the boaters, and we enjoyed an excellent dinner at one of them, Big Tuna.
Gordon’s effort to install the new thruster switch was only partially successful as we are missing a critical tool, a multi-meter circuit tester. The one I had purchased has mysteriously disappeared... so we will be off first thing tomorrow to buy a new one.
After some initial confusion over the delivery of the new switch for the thrusters, we got underway, headed to Georgetown, SC around 10:30 am. It warmed up, and the route was fairly straightforward, but a number of sections were so shallow that our bottom skimmed the soft mud. Navigating these shallow stretches is nerve wracking and exhausting. Gordon drove the hardest part! Otherwise it was a pleasant trip up to the Harborwalk marina which is in easy walking distance to downtown Georgetown, where we arrived at 6:45 pm. This little town has a giant paper plant and a soon to be reopened steel mill, though numerous store fronts on Main Street are vacant. The thriving businesses are restaurants serving the boaters, and we enjoyed an excellent dinner at one of them, Big Tuna.
Gordon’s effort to install the new thruster switch was only partially successful as we are missing a critical tool, a multi-meter circuit tester. The one I had purchased has mysteriously disappeared... so we will be off first thing tomorrow to buy a new one.
Monday, April 16, 2018
Charleston, SC
Last night we slogged through a steady rain to a nearby restaurant where Anne had shrimp and grits and I had a gumbo! We were among a very few dinners who had ventured out. It was an extremely wet evening. Kate enjoyed her fish tacos and Gordon knocked back an order of something that had the word schnitzel in it.
We are tied up as far as a vessel can get from the marina office and restrooms - so far that the WiFi does not work. Thankfully we had dinner planned on board and enjoyed another fine meal even without use of the grill - which we had planned to use, but could not due to the strong westerly wind.
Tomorrow we hope the new switch arrives early enough that we can make Georgetown, SC, another 60 miles north. Otherwise, who knows! You would not believe how many HUGE boats are filling this marina to capacity.
Sunday, April 15, 2018
Thunderstorms in Beaufort, SC
Got off to a very early start this morning in order to arrive at our next destination before the serious foul weather set in - which it now (at 5:30 pm) has. Docking at 12:30 pm, managed by Gordon, was quite challenging as a fierce south wind was doing its best to keep us off the dock. A torrential rain is giving Finally a good bath. Just hoping it lets up enough to allow us to get into Beaufort for dinner👩🏽🍳. Dale, the local marine mechanic, is due on board at 8:30 am to see if he can fix the bow thruster - which only works intermittently on the starboard side...
Saturday, April 14, 2018
A Day in Savannah
Walked about 5 Miles around Savannah today. Loved the SCAD museum and the fountains. Bone tired tonight. We have to get an early start tomorrow to get ahead of the forecasted storm coming our way.
Friday, April 13, 2018
Savannah
Arrived at the Thunderbolt Marine marina at Noon in Thunderbolt, GA after an easy trip up from the Kilkenny Marina. According to the welcome info, donuts and a newspaper will be delivered to us tomorrow morning. Made a trip to Whole Foods in town for high end provisions and enjoyed a relaxing afternoon. Kate and Gordon made an awesome dinner - a delightful clam sauce served over thin spaghetti.
Finally
This is our 37’ Nordic Tug, to be renamed Silver Star. We bought her in Tampa FL, and this is our final leg of our journey to bring her home to a marina in Deale, MD.
Kilkenny to Savanah
Arrived Kilkenny Marina, Richmond Hill, GA at 5:45 after a challenging 7 hour 67 mile trip through a maze of serpentine rivers and sounds yesterday. Enjoyed a fine dinner of wild Georgia shrimp at the Marker107 restaurant, a short walk from the marina. With Gordon’s coaching I made my first docking without a hitch! Awoke this morning to clouds of gnats making cleaning and refueling hell. Departed for Thunderbolt Marine just North of Savanah at 9 am.
Wednesday, April 11, 2018
Long Day
Finally needed a thorough cleaning inside and out. Anne made the inside sparkle while I scrubbed away months of bird droppings and grime from stem to stern. Our friends Kate and Gordon arrived as planned, and got settled in. We are so fortunate to have them with us on this leg of the long trip home from Tampa, FL which began last November.
Our slip at the Brunswick Landing Marina is just up river from a huge warehouse where the paper produced by several huge local paper mills (owned by the Koch brothers) is stored prior to loading on giant ships to be sent somewhere overseas, and when the ship is being loaded the beep beep sound of fork lifts backing up is incessant and obnoxious!
PS We made it to Publix today and scored some tarragon chicken salad and southern style potatoe salad!
Our slip at the Brunswick Landing Marina is just up river from a huge warehouse where the paper produced by several huge local paper mills (owned by the Koch brothers) is stored prior to loading on giant ships to be sent somewhere overseas, and when the ship is being loaded the beep beep sound of fork lifts backing up is incessant and obnoxious!
PS We made it to Publix today and scored some tarragon chicken salad and southern style potatoe salad!
Tuesday, April 10, 2018
Provisioning
Arghhh! Used a map app to find a grocery store and ended up at Walmart... on the way back home we passed our favorite grocery store down here in the south - Publix! So we missed the better fruit and vegetables - and the awesome chicken salad. At least we likely spent a lot less. Finally needs a good cleaning, but she is still afloat. Work day tomorrow - our trip companions arrive at dinner time, so we will start north on Thursday.
Monday, April 9, 2018
Finally ICW Journal
Starting from Brunswick Landing Marina in Brunswick, GA on April 13 bound for Herrington Harbor Marina in Deale, MD by April 30.
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